In This Post
Are you curious about ferments in skincare? If you’re new to the skincare game, read this post to learn all about ferment products, First Treatment essences (FTEs) in Asian skincare, and how you can benefit from them.
What are ferments in skincare?
A fermented skincare product consists of fruits, yeast, and herbs, which can be fermented. The process of fermentation converts them into a serum, moisturizer, or mask. Ferments in skincare are said to be readily absorbed into the skin and help yield better benefits as compared to chemical-enriched products.
What are the benefits of ferments in skincare?
There are some scientific studies out there about how ferments in skincare might help hydration.
According to a study about ferments in skincare:
“…results showed that all strains studied were capable of producing hyaluronic acid, with higher production by lactobacilli than bifidobacteria. Production of diacetyl was more prevalent from strains of lactobacilli, while bifidobacteria produced higher amounts of acetic acid”
Ferments in skincare also get a mention in a Lab Muffin post,
“For example, soy contains two forms of the isoflavones genistein and daidzein – the regular versions, as well as their glycosides which have a chunky sugar attached. Genistein and daidzein have been found to increase hyaluronic acid production in in-vitro studies, which could help with skin hydration and fine lines, but the glycoside versions don’t do much”
As described in the FSOS blog, “in addition to hydrating and balancing skin and preparing it for optimal absorption of other skincare products, first essences or FTE perform a lot of functions such as brightening skin tone, lightening dark marks, firming and tightening skin texture, giving your skin a radiant glow. Ferments in skincare can also smooth out fine lines and wrinkles and prevent future ones from appearing.”
Having said that, the studies on ferments in skincare are limited and not long-term.
Pharmaceutical companies haven’t even figured out a consistent system, so we recommend taking the results with a pinch of salt. Skin penetration is a complex process and each molecule requires different conditions and carriers. Ingredients such as corn starch and Lecithin can increase the surface area or temporarily disrupt the skin barrier which can cause subsequent products to dry faster (giving the illusion of fast product absorption).
Nevertheless, many users have reported their skin looking radiant and visibly healthier after consistently using ferments in their skincare routine. This brings us to the First Treatment Essences.

What is First Treatment Essence (FTE)?
In Asian skincare, ferments are available as first essences or First Treatment Essence (FTE) and can be a great add-on for anyone.
FTE in skincare is a product category of thin, watery products loaded with fermented ingredients (often Galactomyces or Saccharomyces).
In an Asian skincare regime, FTEs are the first product to go onto your face (hence the name First Treatment Essences). You should apply your first essence right after you wash your face and before you apply any other products like toners, moisturisers, etc.
There is one exception to that rule though. If you are using pH-dependent products in your routine such as Salicylic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid, etc., you should apply these first, wait briefly and then apply FTE.

What are the best skincare products with ferments?
Here are some of our recommendations for the best skincare with ferments based on their formulation, price and customer experiences.
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COSRX Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence
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Our Rating: 5/5 HG!
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COSRX – Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence 100ml – $15.09
Formulated with 96% Snail Secretion Filtrate (Mucin) this essence protects the skin from moisture loss while keeping the skin texture smooth and healthy. Features
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MISSHA – Time Revolution The First Essence Enriched
- Our Rating: 4.9/5 HG
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MISSHA – Time Revolution The First Essence Enriched – 150ml – $51.69
The beginning of anti-ageing from the start The first concentrated anti-ageing essence brightens dull skin from the first step by reinforcing the skin’s natural strength. Features
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SIDMOOL – SACCHARO Ferment Sparkle First Ampoule
- Our Rating: 4.9/5 HG
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SIDMOOL – SACCHARO Ferment Sparkle First Ampoule 100ml – $39.00
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- Our Rating: 4.5/5 WRP
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BEAUTY OF JOSEON – Ginseng Essence Water – 150ml(5 fl.oz.) – $12.49
A fresh nourishing toner enriched with Hanbang (traditional Korean herbal medicine) ingredients for smoother and revitalized skin. Notable ingredients: Ginseng root water 80% + Niacinamide 2% + Adenosine 0.04% + Ginseng complex Features
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SK-II – Facial Treatment Essence (Pitera Essence)
- Our Rating: 4.5/5 WRP
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SK-II – Facial Treatment Essence (Pitera Essence) – 230ml – $99.99
A powerful treatment essence dubbed Miracle Water in Asia. Each bottle contains 90% PITERA a natural bio ingredient cultured exclusively in Japan for SK-II. Its transformative powers on skin appearance are legendary that a bottle is sold every 2 seconds. Features
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I’m From – Mugwort Essence
- Our Rating: 4.5/5 MWRP
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I’m From – Mugwort Essence – 160ml – $30.09
I’m From Mugwort Essence collects Ganghwa mugwort grown with Sea breeze and fog and ages for 3 years with the traditional method. Features
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Amore Pacific – Vintage Single Extract Essence
- Our Rating: 4/5 MWRP
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Amore Pacific – Vintage Single Extract Essence – 150ml – $244.29
Fully extracted from the vintage green tea harvested from Jeju Dolsongi Tea Garden. Fermented and aged for 100 days in nature the powerful antioxidant ingredient of VINTAGE SINGLE EXTRACT ESSENCE effectively purifies 3 causes of skin ageing. Features
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Neogen Real Ferment Micro Essence
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Our Rating: 4/5 WRP
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NEOGEN Dermalogy – Dermalogy Real Ferment Micro Essence – 150ml – $25.99
This NEOGEN essence is lightweight and refreshing and effectively moisturizes skin. Features
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Secret Key Starting Treatment Essence
- Our Rating: 3.8/5 MWRP
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Secret Key – Starting Treatment Essence – 155ml – $28.09
The Starting Treatment Essence is a staple to any skincare routine for nearly all skin types! Features
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LANEIGE – Water Bank Moisture Essence
- Our Rating: 4.8/5 MWRP
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LANEIGE – Water Bank Moisture Essence – 70ml – $17.99
A hydrating serum enriched with the Green Mineral Water from vegetables to fortify the skin barrier for healthy skin. Features
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Header image: Soft skin photo created by master1305 – www.freepik.com











